Once you’ve passed the mesmerising landscape of the salt lake Chott el-Jerid, you start getting the glimpse of the enormous palmeraie that shields Tozeur. The salt lake is a snowy-white sheet, stretching for miles. If you step on the crackling surface, the salt sticks to your shoes, and the lake’s water can still be seen underneath. This largest of Tunisia’s salt lakes is dry for 10 months of the year and has a causeway running over it – it’s an extraordinary sight, not to be missed. Tozeur town’s old quarter is a small maze of fascinating and intricate brickwork houses, arches and walls. There’s an ONTT tourist office (450 088; 8am-noon & 3-6pm) located on Ave Abdulkacem Chebbi. Another tourist office is the Syndicat d’Initiative (462 034; Place Bab el-Hawa). There are several banks with ATMs on Ave Habib Bourguiba. There are two Publinets at Ave Farhat Hached (open 24 hours) and at Ave Abdulkacem Chebbi, both charging US$1.50 per hour for internet access. Tozeur was h